| UTRCRC CRAWLER TECH |
As many or you also do, we are constently tweeking and changing our crawlers and learning new ways to improve them. Some of these experements work... and some don't. We gladly share our knowlegde and experiences with you. If you have any comments or want us to write a certain tech article please let us know. All our Tech Articles are only considered as informational guidelines and in no way are the authers or UTRCRC resonsable for any harm that may accure to anyones self or property while fallowing these guides.
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Motor Tech - Wiring & Capacitors
Wheel Tech - Clod Rim cut & Narrow the Better Way
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| Technical write-up: |
Capacitor & Motor Wiring Illustration |
| Technician: |
Kaetwo |
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lease note:
This article is designed to be used as a reference guide and not a step by step how-to-guide.
Let’s get started…
There are several motors currently being used for crawling. Some of the most common motors used are the stock 540 Mabuchi/Johnson motors, 55x1 Modified Lathe Motors and the famous Kyosho Monster Meyhem.
We will be focusing primarily on the 55x1 Modified Lathe motors but I will indicate any necessary changes as they pertain to the other motors listed above.
Capacitors…
The first step is to solder on the capacitors. The type of capacitor used for this application is a 0.1µF (50V) capacitor. The type of end bell the motor has will determine how the capacitors are installed. The images below show the proper installation of the capacitors on each type of end bell.
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Reversing Timing…
For the Juggernaut and TXT-1 type transmissions it is not necessary to reverse the winding of one of the motors. However on the Clodbuster style tranny’s it is.
For the stock 540 Mabuchi/Johnson style motors this can be done by simply wiring the motor backwards (positive to negative and negative to positive). For the Monster Meyhem motors they are available as a reverse rotation motor and can be purchased as such. On motors with an adjustable timing you can simply reverse the timing 180 degrees in order to reverse the rotation. Below is a brief illustration, showing how to reverse the timing.
The first step is to mark the can of the motor with a line that matches the 0 degree timing mark on the end bell. Most adjustable end bell motors have two 0 degree timing marks, one across from the other. This will allow you to rotate the end bell 180 degrees accurately.
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Once the can is marked you will then want to loosen the end bell screws.
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Once the can is marked you will then want to loosen the end bell screws.
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At this point you can then tighten the end bell screws to finish the process.
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Wiring…
Let’s now take a look at wiring up the motors for a Clodbuster style crawler. Remember that a Clodbuster based crawler requires that the rear motor turn opposite of the front i.e. reverse winding.
The illustration below shows the proper wiring for a parallel sequence.
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Notice how the wiring from the Electronic Speed Control is soldered to the rear motor. A common problem with this wiring setup is that the motor with the most amount of resistance stalls, typically the rear. By wiring up the rear motor first you are effectively provide power to that motor first thereby reducing the motor stall effect.
I hope that the illustrations where helpful. If you have any comments or questions, send them to:
Kaetwo@hotmail.com
Late
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| Technical write-up: |
Clod Rim Cut & Narrow The Better Way |
| Technition: |
PinchFlat |
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Please note:
All our Tech Articles are only considered as informational guidelines and in no way are the authers or UTRCRC resonsable for any harm that may accure to anyones self or property while fallowing these guides.
Don't be afraid…
As most of you may know, one of the first modification done to a RC Clod based crawler is to narrow the stock Clod Buster rims. The most common way to do this is to simply cut off both outer beads of the rim and mount the tires on the inside of the inner rim beads. This takes the rim from 3 11/16” (9.4cm)* to 2 9/16” (6.6cm)*. Simple and easy, right? Well there is a better way that is just as easy. (*All measurements are taken from the inside of the rims beads.)
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If you are like me there is a certain uncomfortable feeling you get when you are about to “ruin” a perfectly good set of rims by cutting off the beads. Well with this technique you can narrow your Clod Buster rims and still keep both inside and outside beads intact.
This technique offers 3 basic ways you can narrow your rims. Two of these ways effect the stock offset of the rim. The offset of a rim is the distance from the rear of your rim to the connection plate. The stock offset of a Clod Buster rim is about 1 3/4” (4.5cm). The third way will not affect the offset of the rim.
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Option 1
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Let us start with the easiest option. This is the easiest because it only requires you to cut the Clod rim only once, and after you cut and trim a bit, the pieces fit together almost like a puzzle. This also is the way that does not affect the stock rims offset. With this option you will also only narrow the outer edge of the rim, thus bringing in the outside edge of the wheel and effectively narrowing your overall vehicles stance.
This option will narrow your stock Clod Buster rim from 3 11/16” (10cm)* to about 2 13/16” (7.2cm)*.
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Step 1: Using your hacksaw, cut the rim just behind the front taper of the rim as shown in figure 1-1b-1c.
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Step 2: Using a Dremel with a sanding drum attached, completely remove the plastic ledge that is left on the inside of the outer piece of the rim you just removed. As shown in Figure 2. (You could use a hobby knife to do the trimming but I recommend you use a dremel tool for safety reasons. Be careful, in using a hobby knife you could possibly over cut the rim and damage it.)
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Step 3: As shown in (fig. 3) use your sanding block (i used a power sander) to even out the other side of the rim that was cut and slightly bevel the outside edge
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Step 4: Insert the rear section of the rim into the front section of the rim as shown (fig.4-4b).
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Step 5: Using your CA glue, apply CA along the outside seem as shown (fig. 5) Making sure the rim is even and true. Let rim dry.
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Step 6: Using your CA glue, apply CA along the inside seem as shown (fig. 6). Let rim dry. Now do this 3 more times and your finished.
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Option 2
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The next option is easy also. This modification DOES affect the stock rims offset. With this option you will only narrow the inner edge of the rim, thus bringing in the inside edge of the wheel and while your overall vehicles stance does not change, the inside dimension between your wheels gets wider. This is a great modification if you need a little more clearance so if your tires rub your links this may solve that problem.
This option will narrow your stock Clod Buster rim from 3 11/16” (10cm)* to a range of 3 1/8” (8cm)* to 2 5/8” (7cm)*.
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Step 1: Using your hacksaw, cut the backside of the rim just behind the rear bead as shown in figure 7 |
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| Step 2: Using a Dremel with a sanding drum attached, completely remove the plastic ledge that is left on the inside of the outer piece of the rim you just removed. As shown in figure 8. (You could use a hobby knife to do the trimming but I recommend you use a dremel tool for safety reasons. Be careful, in using a hobby knife you could possibly over cut the rim and damage it.) |
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| Step 3: As shown in (fig. 9) use your sanding block to even out the other side of the rim that was cut and slightly bevel the outside edge. |
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| Step 4: Insert the front section of the rim into the rear section of the rim as shown (fig.10-10b). |
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| Step 5: Using your CA glue, apply CA along the outside seem as shown (fig. 11) Making sure the rim is even and true (Pay close attention to lining this up. It won’t be as easy as option 1). Let rim dry. |
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Step 6: Using your CA glue, apply CA along the inside seem as shown (fig. 12). Let rim dry. Now do this 3 more times and your finished.
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Option 3
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The next option is the most involved of the 3 methods. This modification affects both the stock rims offset and the overall width of your crawler. With this option you not only narrow the inner edge of the rim, your will narrow the outside edge also.
This option offers the most flexibility for narrowing the Clod rim. It can narrow your stock Clod Buster rim from 3 11/16” (10cm)* to a range of +3 1/8” (8cm)* to -1 3/4” (4.4cm)* of even narrower if you really want.
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Step 1: Using your hacksaw, cut the backside of the rim just behind the rear bead as shown in figure 7. And also, cut the rim just behind the front taper of the rim as shown in figure 1. After you make the cuts your rim should look like figure 13b.
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| Step 2: Using a Dremel with a sanding drum attached, completely remove the plastic ledge that is left on the inside of the outer piece of the rim you just removed. As shown in Figure 8. Also completely remove the plastic ledge that is left on the inside of the outer piece of the rim you just removed. As shown in Figure 2. (You could use a hobby knife to do the trimming but I recommend you use a dremel tool for safety reasons. Be careful, in using a hobby knife you could possibly over cut the rim and damage it.) |
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| Step 3: As shown in (fig. 13) use your sanding block to even out the other sides of the center piece or the rim that was cut and slightly bevel the outside edges. |
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| Step 4: Insert the front and rear sections of the rim into the center section of the rim as shown (fig.14-14b-14c). |
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| Step 5: After setting your desired width and offset, using your CA glue, apply CA along the outside seems as shown (fig. 15-11) making sure the rim is even and true (Pay VERY close attention to lining up all 3 pieces up. It won’t be as easy as option 1 or option 2. It may be wise to measure the total desired width and offset of your finished rim and mark the pieces accordingly and glue one side at a time.) Let rim dry. |
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Step 6: Using your CA glue, apply CA along the inside seem as shown (fig. 6-12). Let rim dry. Now do this 3 more times and your finished.
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As you may have figured out you can adjust most of these dimensions on all the options by trimming more material from the rims. Pay attention to just how much gluing surface you leave. The more gluing surface and overlap you have the stronger the joints will be and thus a stronger finished product.
If you prefer to use JB Weld or any other permanent adhesive other than CA glue, go for it. I personally like using CA.
Happy Modifying
-PinchFlat
I hope that the illustrations where helpful. If you have any comments or questions, send them to:
pinchflat@utrcrc.com
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